
Filters for digital photography
by Jason Schneider |
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If you talk to professional photographers who’ve gone completely, or almost completely, digital and ask them what kind of optical filters they use, they’ll probably snicker or smile. Most of these guys don’t use any optical filters at all, except maybe a Skylight or UV to protect some of their most expensive glass. They’re totally into the digital paradigm, treating their raw image files as matrixes to be enhanced and shaped in Photoshop before being output as prints or image files for their clients. With this mind-set, adding electronic plug-in filters to the mix makes a lot of sense, After all, these mini software programs let you add virtually any filter effects you want after taking the picture, as well as combine, layer, and partially erase these effects to transform images in ways that are virtually impossible with traditional glass optical filters. The real beauty of plug-in or software filters is that you can save each change, go back to any given point, or start all over again—all without altering your original image. SOME DIGITAL FILTER CHOICES The before-and-after examples shown at the end of this article will give you a good idea of what you can do with these powerful creative tools, and why I believe they belong in any serious photographer's arsenal. However, while plug-in filters provide the ultimate in filtering flexibility, may be able to replace optical glass filters in some applications, and offer unique effects that are impossible or impractical to achieve by other means, there are still important things you can do with optical filters that actually filter the light before it reaches the image sensor or film. OPTICAL FILTERS With the possible exception of color-conversion filters used for shooting tungsten film in daylight and vice-versa, which are not all that useful in digital photography, virtually any optical glass filter can be used effectively with your digital camera. Yes, this includes those classic medium yellow, light green and deep red filters you used to get more pleasing tonal gradation and dramatic skies when shooting black-and-white film. They’ll have the same effect when shooting in black-and-white mode with your digital camera. Indeed, all optical filters offer an elegantly effective, predictable way to get a wide variety of creative effects by simply screwing them in over your lens and taking the shot. No Photoshop or other image manipulation required, and you don’t even sacrifice the advantage of having an unfiltered image file for use later with plug-in filters ---just take a second shot without the filter! The only caveat about using optical filters on digital cameras (or film cameras, for that matter) is that the diameter of the filter must be equal to or larger than the diameter of the lens you’re using it on. If it isn’t, you may get darkened corners or image edges (vignetting), especially in shots taken at wide-angle focal lengths. If the lens you’re using on a digital SLR is the same one you used with your 35mm SLR, your present optical filters may fit. If not, you can easily mount larger diameter filters on a smaller-front- diameter lens by getting an inexpensive step-up ring. TRADITIONALIST OR A PRAGMATIST? Using optical filters also provides two essential technical advantages that are only possible by altering the light before it passes through the lens—true polarization, and compression of the lighting ratio. With a linear or circular polarizer, you can not only eliminate or attenuate glare on many surfaces (e.g. water or glass), but also see the actual subject details beneath the reflections you’ve eliminated. With a plug-in polarizer, there’s no way of getting the information hidden beneath the glare because the information was never recorded! Important? It depends on the subject—if you’re trying to capture the display in a store window or a bird in the water that’s been blown out by glare, a plug-in polarizer won’t cut it. Essentially, all a plug-in polarizer can do is to de-emphasize glare and enhance color contrast. Graduated plug-in filters have different restrictions. They work great in many cases, and they’ll give you practically any color or degree of gradation you want. However, if you’re using a graduated filter to compress the brightness range of a scene so that both highlight and shadow areas fall within the exposure latitude of the capture medium, you’re much better off with an optical graduated filter, which can give you, for example, cloud details in a bright sky while properly exposing the darker landscape. This is particularly important with digital image sensors, which are less tolerant of overexposure than, say, color print film. THE BOTTOM LINE SOME FILTER EFFECTS EXAMPLES |
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![]() No Filter |
![]() B+W 655 | ![]() B+W Soft Pro |
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![]() Sunpak Foggilizer |
![]() Sunpack Silky Soft A |
![]() Sunpack Silky Soft B |
![]() Tiffen Color Grad |
![]() Tiffen Enhancer |
![]() Tiffen Glimmerglass |
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![]() Without Polarizer |
![]() With Tiffen Polarizer |
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![]() Nik Classic Soft focus Before |
![]() Nik Classic Soft focus After |
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![]() Nik Polarization Before |
![]() Nik Polarization After |
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![]() Nik Skin Softener Before |
![]() Nik Skin Softener After |
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![]() Nik Graduated Blue + Sunshine Original |
![]() Nik Graduated Blue + Sunshine Final |
![]() Nik Graduated Orange Before |
![]() Nik Graduated Orange After |
![]() Nik Infrared BW Before |
![]() Nik Infrared BW After |
![]() Nik Sunshine Before |
![]() Nik Sunshine After |